A Wave A Day

Guess Where???

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First person to comment and correctly name this beach/surfbreak wins a box of Emergen-C Pink!!!


(Sorry Teresa and Matthew – you don’t get to play this time!)

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Foot is better, back is better – now we just need the wind to LAY down.
Onward and upwards to better tomorrows…

no stress

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It really is remarkable to me that the most windy and yuckfest conditions can still make you feel better when you are with a friend!

(the ultra heavenly warm water helps too!)

I usually don’t repost things form other sites, but I just keep thinking about stress and happiness. As a mother, I think I have gotten really good at not getting sucked into the emotional roller coaster of life. You just never know what the day is going to hold, but if you let a little left turn stress you out -you are done for. Stress is about the WORST thing you can do for your body!
Here’s a little clip from Keep A Breast’s Non-Toxic Revolution campaign. It is just a gentle reminder that being happy and doing things that you love is the BEST thing you can do for your body. Have a look:
http://www.kabntr.org/videos/heart-and-soul-video-featuring-leah-dawson/

Continuem

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My back is a lovely state of suck right now…
At the expense of pushing Ollie into wave after wave on his new board, the twisted and bent over position has sent my back into a tizzy – once again. I must remember that there are just some things, I can’t do.
So with this sore back, surfing is really the last thing I “should” be doing or even want to do… rest is best, but that is just not in my cards for the day.
I had great intentions of jetting down to the beach, paddling out for a quick version of a wave, and jumping back in the truck and straight to the hot shower.
However, when I got there – I realized I had forgotten my one bootie for my foot and any dressings to keep the sand out. Whoops.
As I examined the risk factor of my toe, I noticed that two of the top stitches had become untied so I tugged on them a little and ripped them both out. I hope that was a good idea.
I wasn’t going to drive back up to the house – so I just said screw it and got in the water.
The water was SO very clear – which is awesome but it also means that you can SEE all those sting rays lurking below. I saw one right away and jumped on my board and started paddling even though it was only about 1ft deep.
Once I was outside – I saw two more swim beneath me, and then decided it was best not to stare down at the water anymore.
I caught a small yet fun wave in and I was going to call it a day so that I could attempt at not straining my back – but I couldn’t resist catching one more. Amazing the power of surfing.
I sat out there a while waiting for the next set – all by myself enjoying the coming of the sunset, two more sting rays swam under me in about 4 ft of water.
I caught one last wave and I was so glad I did. One wave is never really enough – even with a bad back and shark bait toe.

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I’m trying to ignore the fact that my back is seized up again and my toe is taking forever to close up and for every forward step I take I feel like I’m heading two steps back.
It was a beautiful night at the beach and a South Swell is on it’s way and I’m going to do all that I can to enjoy the special moments in the day.

Nothin’ like it…

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There are those special parenting moments when time stands still and all the hard times are wiped out by something magical.
Today Ollie got his first surf board – just for him. He couldn’t wait to get in the water and try it out – and within a matter of minutes he was jumping up and riding waves in all on his own.

He can carry it on his own, paddle it, turn it around in the water and catch waves all by himself without me having to push him into every wave.
GLS Surf has a lot of different models, shapes, and sizes – check them out today! It is amazing how capable kids are when given the right tools.

One Bootied Bandit.

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The fourth attempt of keeping the sand out of my slice in my toe was a welcomed success today. I have no more pain so to be able to go on with something that works in keeping the sand out is awesome.
It just took the right configuration of a rubber glove ducted taped on my foot and my neoprene booty fit snug over it all.
No all we need are some waves!!!

Attempt #3… failure.

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So today was day three of surfing with an open wound. And I now officially give up at trying to keep it dry or free of sand.
Nothing I have tried has worked and it is just causing a lot of extra steps and worry into my day. I will try not to run around in the sand, and I will not surf near or south of any river mouths… but it is just going to heal however it will heal doing what I am doing.
It’s the best I can do and so far so good!
P.S. Welcome home Tyler – it has been an interesting last three weeks! Glad to have you home. Now we are ready for summer to “really” begin!

Trash bags are not waterproof.

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This injury – while not that bad, it proving to make things more interesting and a wee bit complicated.
The doc expressed her greatest concern for the risk of infection – there are so many nasty things out in that gorgeous ocean.
She asked me to at least attempt to keep it dry for the first week till it has a chance to seal itself up.
Well, so far, I have been out two days with no luck of keeping it dry.
My system of bagging it and duct taping it works great in the shower – but has no test to the ocean and surfing.
Plus – it is super hard to surf with a big thing on my foot!

Today I slipped a booty over the bag and that helped with the walk down, etc… but in the water it felt like I was surfing with a cement block attached to my foot.
There was no grace about today. But there were some funny looks and conversations of curiosity.

Photo by Zack Ashton – check out Zach’s music too..goes well with a day like today in the water.

Day 80 = visit to the ER

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Sliced my toe open on my fin. Lovely…
The doc said to stay out of the water for two weeks – but that isn’t going to happen! She stitched it up good and said to make hydrogen peroxide my best friend for a while.
Feet take a while to heal, and because of the depth of the cut, she said this was going to take some time and the risk for infection is really high.
I plan to keep my eye on it – and take it easy. Of course, there has to be super fun waves and calm wind right now. Sheesh.
Big bandage for a wee toe!