A Wave A Day

Waves!

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Pinky + Green

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There hasn’t been too much that has really set me back with this project. Some days are really easy – other days are really hard. The only thing that always has me on high alert has been my back.
With no disc space between my L4, L5, and S1 – I am always at risk of compromising this mission. Many people live with this situation, but I am not ready to have it take me down.
I am super fortunate to be introduced to the folks over at The Greenasium in Encinitas. It is a gym that’s mission is really to help people achieve their goals and while they are doing it – provide a space based on sustainable environmental focus.
Every trainer and owner does their part to offset the environmental impact that having a gym entails. They volunteer for the Surfrider Foundation and the local recycling companies – just to name a few.
These folks care about their place in the community and the vibe is really cool there. There are no membership fees – just a commitment to signing up for a training session only twice a month – and then you can come use the facility as much as you want, and often receiving one on one when you are there anyways!
I signed up for my first initial consult – which is a comprehensive exam of over health and fitness – which is FREE, and then the follow up/first training session is also included – so you can really try it out and see if it is a good fit for you.
I can’t wait to see if I can get where my back isn’t an issue anymore. I know if I put in the time – I can make it happen with the help of the folks at The Greenasium!

yuck.

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I am pretty sure I surfed in polluted water today… The beach was closed due to a spill at a sewage plant and I didn’t see the signs posted where I was. When I got home – I read that the beach where I was was closed.
The water looked funky – but any current or swell can churn up a little stuff out there… so I am just hoping I was in the water before the nasty stuff hit the ocean.
If I grow an extra arm or something… don’t let me ever surf near Cardiff again. Hopefully the burning HOT shower I spent 20 mins in and the alcohol I poured in my ears will kill anything that I may have come in contact with.
YUCK!
P.S. Thanks Janet for making Ev’s day really special! He has been busting at the seams to hang over there!!!

Happiness

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The most natural and best prevention method in life for ANY illness is less stress and MORE happiness!!! The messy house will survive, the laundry will eventually get folded, the grass looks cute with dandelions growing all through it… My new happiness moto: Drop everything and go play! It is these little special moments in life that can carry us through the hard ones. We left all the dishes on the table last night and went outside to enjoy the cool evening air and had a great little sunset skate session…
NOTHING makes me happier than my boys. Here’s a little clip from last night –

O.N.E.

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I don’t have many things that are a regular in my life. Probably the most consistent things right now is that I surf every day and I drink water every day. Other than that – everything changes. I am not an animal of routine. However, since I have started this project, I have been lucky enough to be sponsored by O.N.E. Coconut Water to help me stay hydrated during this mission. I have been drinking about one a day for the last couple months – with the exception of the last 8 days I spent in WI. Coconut water hasn’t quite hit the Midwest yet, especially the Northwoods – and so I went without. You wouldn’t really think one would notice a great difference by changing just one thing a day in your diet… but I really did. I have become accustom to drinking it either before or after my surf and I always feel so refreshed and revived. It’s loaded with potassium and all the other essential electrolytes – naturally. I don’t really like to preach about any one product or theory or way to live… but I just wanted to share how much I love coconut water. It’s the real deal. If I lived in the tropics… I would send my little tree climber, Oliver, to chop down some coconuts every day. They love it, I love it, and I feel so good about putting it in my body. Thanks O.N.E.!

11 hours on WI soil and straight to the News!

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Thanks to my Auntie Kathy for leaking the story to Channel 6 News in WI – they showed up for Pinky’s initial fresh water dunk!

Drink it up

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My mosquito bites have finally stopped itching and after my first dunk in the ocean tonight… I felt like I could drink it up. Nothing like a little salt water on the tongue.
We had an amazing trip to WI – felt great to sign off for a while and it was wonderful to have Pinky along for the ride.
(Stay tuned for a video with footage form the trip.)
Thank you fireflies, fresh water, shade, cousinville!, starry nights, bonfires, Mom’s cookin’, catching frogs, jumping off the raft, canoes, sunsets, fishing, 12a.m. “pudgy pies”, Pabst, piers, driving through farm land, saying hi to cows, family, family, family. We crammed a lot in to the 8 days we spent there and made every minute count. Serious memory making.

After being away from the ocean for 8 days, you would think it would be no big deal… but I can’t tell you how out of touch I felt. Started off bad with my screw for my fin being jammed down in the track and having no tools to release it. I felt like Macgyver and used my key to get it out and then proceed to tighten the screw with my library card on my key chain! (Note: put fins on at home with proper tools BEFORE heading out to surf next time!)
I paddled out and felt way out of my element, like I was in a different country in different waters. But as soon as I dropped in on my first wave, that I had to fight off all the Surf P.E. kids for, ALL was returned to me – and I felt back to normal.

12a.m. In Milwaukee.

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Off to fresh water…

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There is so much to add about today that I am drawing a blank…
If I had to say anything it is thanks to my crew at Indigo Dragon. Without them I would be in serious trouble. There is no one solution – massage is not the only answer, not chiropractic, not acupuncture, not eating well… it is all of it combined and working together. It is about balancing all things.
I am really looking forward to our trip to WI tomorrow! A little surfing the Great Lakes!!!
As for today… stretch, stretch, stretch…
Melissa, Ash, and Steve – you are truly amazing at what you do. You are a crucial part to this whole mission and I can’t thank you enough.
(Here’s to long lines and sunny skies – at least for a bit this morning!)

P.S. I hear so many stories about young and very healthy, active, organic food eating, toxin free women who are diagnosed with cancer- which is just such a great reminder that no matter what you do, you cannot always change what life has in store for you. But you can accept it and move on – and the best part is, many of these women caught it SO early and it is now a thing of their past and has only made them stronger. A great reason to go check yourself right now. Why not?