A Wave A Day
29
Sep
There have been lots of fun days out there in the water as a result of this project.
However – when faced with fever, sinus pressure so bad my teeth feel like they are going to fall out and body aches like I’ve been beaten with a dull stick… getting in the cold water and exerting any sort of energy feel like the LAST thing on earth I should be doing.
This is my towel – perfectly placed on my seat, BEFORE I paddled out… Yes, it is true – this is my way of being one step closer to the hot shower after running to my car from the shortest surf ever.
And figures – there just happens to be a really fun NW swell in the mix. Argh.
P.S. I stopped in to Indigo Dragon today and Ash offered to help me relieve some of my symptoms – Laying there with needles on my face, I instantly started to drain… and walked out feeling better, with a handful of herbs to take home to speed the recovery. Let this be the first and the last of the season!!!
27
Sep
Yesterday I didn’t get a chance to get to surf until just before sunset. It was one of those days that I really didn’t want to go. I had 100 other things I could have and should have done. Not to mention that surfing during a red tide often makes me have cold-like symptoms. I put my wetsuit on at the house and headed down to the closest spot and ran out without even checking the waves. When I got in the water, I forgot about everything I needed to do and I sat out in the silk-like glassy water and watched the sun dip below the horizon. I stay out surfing until I couldn’t see the waves coming in anymore… and the guy at the gate was waiting for me to get my car out of the lot. I still got everything done I needed to – just had to stay up a little later. 153 days into this and surfing still NEVER fails to change my mood, make me feel better, and I always am a better person after I get out of the water.
(P.S. Ash! 3rd dry hair session of the mission!!! Yeow!)
26
Sep
Get them while they last!!! I only have a handful left! Head to the SHOP section of this site
25
Sep
I woke up this morning at the first sign of light to little Ev sitting up from inside his sleeping bag declaring… “Ollie - you are 6!!!!” With in 4 minutes we were walking over the tracks from our campsite on the bluff, to VG’s for a Birthday donut for Ollie. Even though we camped only a mere 1.5 miles from home… it made for a swell bday for the newly 6 year old. Happy Day little man – you bring more happiness to my life than anything imaginable!
22
Sep
19
Sep
I can’t decide… do I miss the here and there hot days of summer – or am I loving the coming of a foggy and cool fall?
Craig and Jason – cheers to a fun day in the water!
18
Sep
While there are so many ways to reduce your risk of breast cancer or any cancer… there are some cultures that take that very seriously by including certain foods/herbs in their diet to help their bodies have the best chance at PREVENTION!
Tumeric is one of the many spices that can aid in your bodies over all health and defense of cancer. Popular in Indian cuisine, turmeric is an anti-inflammatory that’s 300 times more potent than vitamins E or C and may cut your risk of breast cancer in half. It also stimulates liver enzymes, helping to clear the body of bad estrogen toxins.
You don’t have to be mixing up a curry dinner to enjoy the benefits… toss it in with some scrambled eggs, or make a rub on your grilled veggies – some people even put it in their oatmeal if you can stand to eat bright yellow oats!
It is recommended that you eat a meal with tumeric containing at least a half tsp. twice a week. And if you don’t happen to be a fan of the taste – everything is in capsules these days!
13
Sep
I had a great opportunity to take my time surfing today and there just happened to be a great new swell that showed up overnight. I checked it all up and down the coast trying to find the best spot that was the least crowded – ended up back at my home spot! I stretched on the beach for a while and enjoyed my slowed down pace, but I was amped to get in the water – feeling great and ready to surf some FUN waves.
On my way paddling out, I was navigating the channel, scrapping over and under a consistent set, and ducked under the top of the last wave and WHAM!!!
A stand up paddle board hit me directly on the head. I saw him coming down the wave – and with more than enough time and distance, I continued on my path. At last second he decided to kick out and off the back of the wave and his board slammed into my head as I came out the back of the wave from duck diving.
Things went dark, then light, then dark again and continued like that for a while until it just turned to stars… A few guys helped me in to the beach and I sat there for a while with the guy until I knew I was going to be allright. I felt like I was gonna hurl or pass out but luckily I held it all together.
He was a super nice guy and felt really bad – which helped the situation a little. I guess it is just a reminder that anything can happen when the surf is crowded.
I am feeling fine now – still a little foggy and sore in my neck and head and thankful that the collision wasn’t worse.
I never ended up catching any of the good waves… guess I am going to count my boggie in on the whitewash for today and hope for better tomorrows.
Surf safe, be cautious – not aggressive. It is super cool to take risks, but you still have to be smart about what you are doing.
11
Sep
Hard to think about much else today…
