seriously beautiful out there today.
It is days like today that I feel so spoiled that I get to surf.
The swell started to show up right when I paddled out.
Sorry guy I snaked… I was in a bubble of beautiful conditions…
A Wave A Day
I would love to take the time to list all the things I am grateful for. But it must go without saying…
Somehow I survived a completely sleepless night, coffee, a quick breakfast, coffee, went for a crisp hike, more coffee, Alpine track sled run, 3 hour drive home, surfed, changed and made it to Thanksgiving dinner by 3:30.
It is amazing to me what one can accomplish in a day.
Thanks for driving Ty – I spent most of the day not being able to see straight from exhaustion – but I was happy so it didn’t seem to matter much.
From above the clouds in the snow – to sea level in the water… Happy Thanksgiving everyone.
P.S. In the Lineup – Day 4… GoPro underwater camera malfunctions. But it was a whole different scene out there today. Waves! But seemed like all the surfers looking for the good waves had already gone and I paddled out at the lowest tide at the lamest spot and was out there in closeout bombs with other possible out of towers scrapping over the sets.
I am really looking forward to tomorrow!!! Swell building, clean conditions – happy stuffed people.
A couple weeks ago I went to SF to visit my cousin Christine and meet her new little love – Tamu at just a mere two weeks preciously old.
The waves were huge, slamming, stormy and not breaking great for any kind of surfing.
The Rip Curl Pro was going on at Ocean Beach and it was SUCH a treat to watch such amazing athletes in real life. But for me – to surf there was more like cold water survival surfing in the pounding whitewash. None the less – I had a blast – experiencing something new. Thanks Peter for the board and coming out with me!
Just after sunrise somewhere.
Only one person out in all of Campgrounds.
Note to self: where booties when surfing in the early morning hours… not because of the water, but due to the frozenish sand and ice cold concrete parking lot – painful.
Then up to the local mountains by 10a.m. for a FULL day of skiing and snowboarding – feels good.
And Dad – I have such a newfound respect for you and putting on my(AND all of my 5 brother and sisters) boots on for years on end. Now I know why you did it – because there is nothing like watching your kids do something you love.
I love you – and am so thankful for family.
It is all relative.
Today my “lineup” was in line with the boys on the beach so I could see them.
I waited until sunset to surf, and by default and Tyler getting stuck in bad traffic – I was left with no option but to bring the boys down to the beach with me, wrap them up in a towel and have them watch me catch a quick one.
Ollie decides to count and time me while I am out there, and Ev yells as I run in to the water, “do a good whack!”
I laugh to myself, look back at my sweet little gents, and jump in the chilly tiny waves.
I wonder if the boys have any clue why I am doing this…
By the time I got down to the beach and paddled out tonight – I once again, was the only one out. I could have paddled out at the spot where there was a trickle of about 4 people catching the last of the sets as the sun went down and the dark sky rolled in… but I opted for the spot where I could be the only one, with my choice of the mediocre sets that happen to come in.
Got a couple quick fun ones, forgot my leash so I didn’t push myself, and the water miraculously felt warmer!? (was it just me?)
Here’s a couple more photos – just because…
I have decided to post a photo-a-day this week called “In the line up.”
I don’t know why.
But I decided to and so I am going to do it.
There was no one out today – just a sloshy watery windy mess.
I have by chance surfed alone this whole week. (maybe because the waves have sucked – but also by circumstance) Surfing alone brings a whole new element to the sport to me. On big days when you are out their with your friends, and a set rolls in, and someone yells “GO!” as you paddle for a bomb, you go! Having that support, whether big or small, makes all the difference in the world. This project has made me search a bit inward – I have to be my own voice – telling myself to GO!
I had a surprising great time today in otherwise horrible conditions. Surfed alone, mid day in the warm sun and wind. I always think that I would have a better time with someone – but I LOVE my time alone out there in the water.
200 days down – 165 more to go…
I took a little break from updating the site… couple of reasons: One – it helps me get a fresh perspective on what my goals are right now and what am I focusing on, Two – it was my birthday this weekend and I took some much needed time with the fam, Three – updating every day is a mission on it own – but it is nice to be back!
Today was Day 199. 199 Days of surfing in a row.
It is starting to sink in a little.
Starting to feel like I am actually ON a mission.
I am facing a few daunting moments that are just around the corner –
Tyler is leaving in December for a super extended trip to Thailand which always makes things a little extra difficult, especially surfing every day.
He will be gone for Christmas so I am considering going to Wisconsin to be with my family for the Holidays – BUT this means having to surf in Lake MI every day while I am there.
I don’t mind surfing in possible negative temperatures or blowing sideways snow/rain/sleet or all of the above… but doing it EVERY day! yikes… (at least there are no sharks)
The trip is still up for debate – trying to wrap my head around getting into a still wet 6mm and jumping in the slurry of what Lake MI turns into in the winter.
People do it! Why can’t I? (brrrr….)
This will call for a thermos of hot whiskey – yes, even at 7am.
Surfed alone tonight in the little surf that there even was. The ocean was a bit sloppy from a steady wind that blew all day, the sun was below the horizon by the time I got in the water, actually enjoyed being out there alone despite my “shark bait” tendencies to get wiley when I surf alone…. UNTIL a coast guard helicopter came up the coast and went past me 100 yards or so and then circled back around – real slow and proceeded to hover over me and the break I was surfing. I paddled like there was no tomorrow for the beach. shark bait.
It is like a swollen lake out there today. Flatter than flat, not even surfable. I love the looks I get in the parking lots when getting all geared up in a wetsuit, running down to the beach, to paddle out and boogie in on the whitewash in 6 inches of water. I am back up to my car and the same people are often still there, wondering what the hell I am doing! It feels a little silly on days like today, hard to call that surfing, wishing I had a paddle board or something else to take out there to show a bit more effort – but I did it – I got out there – and got in…. Day 193 – Check.