A Wave A Day

sweet salt

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I made it home, back to California, just in time for a last light surf today.

I took a sip and drank it up…

home.

WAVES!!!!

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I knew it was going to be good when I woke up this morning… kind of like you can feel a storm coming in your bones.
The wind had died at some point throughout the night and the Lake had turned to glass! It was amazing seeing waves out there… rolling in, full on sets – and size!
I cranked the heater in the car – scraped the ice off the windshield and headed down to the Lake.


Where the waves were breaking today were WAY out. A North County equivalent to at least 50 or more yards PAST the kelp forests!
It felt like I was in the middle. But with no “shark bait” – I was ok with being so far from shore.
After a couple fun waves another guy paddled out… He has been surfing LM since ’86 and I got the low down on the local breaks and how it works out there.
It was awesome to sit way out there – somewhere new and like nothing I have ever experienced before.
I even got a proper fresh water pounding. Took a wave over the falls (expecting it to be a mushy drop but it pitched me!) Having your head fill with 30 some degree water is an experience all on its own. Brain freeze that turned in to worrying more about my eyelashes freezing shut while I was squeezing my face, then anything else.
And then getting out on to the frozen sand that has turned into a sheet of ice from the breaking waves is a Warren Miller movie waiting to happen. I slipped my way up the beach and on to the dry sand.
By the time I got up to my car – all the water on my board had become solid ice.
Thank goodness for car seat heaters!

And nice to meet you Eric – hope you caught a few more good ones out there!
Check out his fresh water surf site here: www.sweetwatersalvation.com

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A little wind… no problem.
A lot of wind… things get tricky.
Thanks once again Annie for coming down to the beach today – I am not sure me and my board would have made it down the bluff with those gusts without your help.
I am surfing a borrowed 9’6 – and the thing is like a sail when the wind picks up!
But it allows me to catch the smallest of the small waves.
Even pivoting my board to turn around for a wave has to be done with grace or it could blow you right over backwards! Kind of comical actually – I had to laugh a few times out there today.
AND…Another surfer! The first one I have seen in the water all week. You would think I had been living on a deserted island with the excitement I had when I saw another guy paddled out!
He drove all the way from Madison because he heard there were waves!
Nice to meet you Preston – hope you get some good ones in the morning!

Report from the Great Lakes

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Surfing here is a total new experience every day.
There are no webcams to show you the conditions and the surf report has proven to be vaguely correct – at least the wind report has always been dead on.
I get all my stuff ready: jug of hot water, thermos of hot water, and climb in to my wetsuit at the house to avoid changing in 20-30 degrees at the car.
My drive to the Lake is about 15 min and then I have to drive North a ways until I can actually see the “waves.”
I have gotten lucky that two out of the four days I have been here so far I have actually been able to ride waves! The interval between the waves is so short it is enough to make you seasick out there and holding your position in 35 mph gusts is a challenge all on its own.
My Patagonia R4 is AMAZING! I am warm out there as long as I stay moving and my hair has somehow managed to stay mostly dry! The best part is that since the whole inside lining of the wetsuit is made out of wool – it is dry for me to put on the next day – incredible!
Forecast for the next couple days… 2-5ft! YES!!!!

Here are a couple photos from Christmas – a gusty but flat and mild day…

Day one in the fresh

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We drove up the lake “shore” and did a proper surf check – just like I would back home.
Pulled in to a couple spots, checked it and moved on – ending up at Atwater Beach.
There appeared to be actual ridable waves!
I already had my wetsuit on, to avoid changing in below freezing temps – so I was all set to go.
Paddling out in that much neoprene was a whole new deal. But I was surprised at how warm I really was! Thanks Patagonia for helping me out and for making such a quality product!
I looked over at the jetty covered in ice, and was thankful that the day was small enough that I didn’t have to duck dive – spared myself a few braincells by not self inducing a serious brain freeze.
At one point, I yelled to my sister who was watching from the beach, “I could do this all day!” She couldn’t hear me… but none the less – it was true. It is really so fun to experience something new.
Day 238 – fresh water mini waves.

From salt and high seas to fresh and nearly frozen

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This was yesterday morning – my last salt water surf for a while.
The waves were good but I got in and out in order to get to our plane on time.
After a wild day of Holiday travel – we made it to the familiar smells of ‘home.’

Now… trying to get psyched up to jump in 38 degree fresh water! 2.5 waves on the Lake!!!

Face full of rain…

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I paddled out at Georges this morning, not because it was good there, but because of the ease of getting in and out in a timely manner… My window was small.
It happened to be good – at least somewhere. Sizeable sets, clean conditions and a lovely little offshore wind that never fails to give me goosebumps even if I am warm.
The goosebumps come from the purity of exhilaration. I have never been able to explain it well… but I get almost giddy with JOY when I am sprayed in the face by an off shore wind.
I mean, when do you ever turn your face IN to the rain and smile? Or stand in a down pour and enjoy it? That is the closest explanation I have to what it is like to duck dive, paddle over a breaking wave, or kick out – and have the wind blow the top of the wave over and ON to you like a mini rain storm.
Man – I love a glassy day – but there is NOTHING like a day with a little offshore wind to excite nature and have it enter your soul.
Thank you nature for being the light in my soul today.

Day 231 – OB!

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We hiked up over the sand burm – not sure what we were going to see… definitely didn’t think it would be 60 surfers! People going left, people going right, people taking off on closeouts, people everywhere! WHERE WERE WE???
Always fun to check out a new spot even if we didn’t fight for many waves.
Reality of surfing 231 days in now extra chilly water: Wetsuit gymnastics…I have probably taken it on and off at least 400 times so far since May 1st!

Guess what time it is??? Time to check yourself!

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This one is for you Ash…

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After suffering a long 6 week bout of ‘yuck’ from surfing in nasty water… two doses of heavy antibiotics later – I was really reluctant to get in the water today after such a heavy rain the last two days.
I paddled out at the “kook” path, not sure what the break is called, South of 85′s, (anyone?) Either way, it handles a low tide pretty well, and it was as far away from a drain pipe as possible. I just could not risk getting ill again from the water.
So… I did what I call a “dry hair” surf. At least I attempted too. I wore a hat thinking it would make me more likely to do what ever I can to stay above water and not contaminate myself. I pierced my lips shut and turned my face away from any splash coming my way.
I paddled out, made it passed a sizable set with out going under and caught a wave in and called it a day. Slightly damp hair sesh indeed. Thought of you Ash – you always chuckle when I tell you I am attempting to keep my long locks dry. I had a little laugh for you when I got out.