Forgot my wetsuit yesterday…
Surprisingly manageable chilly waters.
The ridiculous gorgeous day saved me.
Only the second time so far since the beginning of the project.
Hopefully the last.
A Wave A Day
Forgot my wetsuit yesterday…
If you haven’t had a chance to check out Surf Sister yet – do it now!
Here’s a link to a recent article/interview they did about A Wave A Day.
I got completely humbled out in the water today. There was definitely some size, kind of a funny crowd of long boarders going on every wave, and short boarders lining up on my wave waiting to see if I was going to pull it or not… well – sadly, I didn’t. I was out for over an hour and I really didn’t catch any waves. Decent ones anyways.
Just didn’t have it in me today. Better luck tomorrow!
On days like this, I usually turn to digital media to inspire me. I check out different surf sites and try to revamp my surf spirit that got shut down today. I started reading Surf Sister a few months ago and really love their articles and inspirational stories – not to mention the photos that accompany them. It’s all about women who surf.
They are based out of Byron Bay – a place I really hope to surf someday.
Be sure to check them out!
I sat in my car staring out through the rain trying to get the gumption to paddle out. I lagged and opted to surf when the tide wasn’t so high, but by the time that happened the onshore wind had ruined any hope for decent waves.
Paddled out anyway in the dumping rain, wind in my face, and caught a few little corners and headed in.
On my walk back to the stairs, I decided to see how much trash I could collect(in one hand). However, by the time I was 50ft from where I got out of the water, my hand was overflowing.
All plastic and styrofoam. Nasty.
In my effort to reduce the use of plastic in my life… I started making my own homemade yogurt!(Thanks to Donna, my Mother In Law, for the tried and true tips!) It was way too easy, tastes amazing, free from any additives, and the first batch came out perfect!
No more plastic yogurt containers!
Here’s to Day 265 – only 100 more to go!!!
I know it has been a couple weeks since I have been ’round. (Tyler’s HOME!)…(and we all were unfortunately sick for nearly two weeks – yuck.)
Still proving to be one of the hardest parts about this project – surfing while sick just sucks.
But that is in the past. Onward and upward!
We traveled up the Coast and eventually up to Morro Bay. We were so dialed in and it felt so great to have NO agenda. We lived outside and minute to minute for nearly a week and I can’t tell you how refreshing that is. It reminds me that I have distanced myself from remembering how to live! For a second… we felt like we could just keep on going.
(I will share some photos soon)
After we got back, I was starting to feel better, and I paddled out at Cardiff just as the sun was going down. Only a few guys out and many fun waves to choose from. They just kept coming in, lining up and going forever! I was having a little moment of bliss.
I was in such a bubble that I soon realized that I was the only one out. And it was getting dark really fast. I waited for one more good one, rode it forever and just HAD to have ‘one more.’ ah… the curse of the “one more!”
It was so dark now that my heart began to race a little, but I still was smiling and waiting to see if I could even see the waves coming… but I couldn’t see anything. I just had to tune in and be ready because all of a sudden the wave was there and I had to spin around, no paddling and just jump up and go for it! It was so hard to see that I couldn’t even tell what the wave was going to do so I just went straight!
I dorked out and fell about half way to shore – still about 100 yards from the beach. I sat for a second to catch a little insider to take me in. But just as I was still – looking around, a seal jumped up RIGHT in front of me – literally like 2ft form the nose of my board and spit water at me with this crazy sound like a hiss! I FREAKED!
Panicked for a mere moment, then realized he was just as spooked to see me as I was of him.
He circled back around and came up next to me – and I am sure that it was the same seal that I followed me on to the beach this summer.
Even though he was a little buddy – I was OUT OF THERE!
I was greeted by the guard waiting to close the gate and snuck home for a hot shower.
I love when I surprise myself… I was so comfortable out there in the dark – ALL alone.
Major shark bait for me. But nothing mattered when the ocean granted me a few perfect little gems.
It’s good to be back.
Tyler snapped a few with his phone of us tonight watching the big waves rolling in.
Life gets busy. That is just a simple reality.
Want to know a sad fact??? I am doing a project about the Prevention of Breast Cancer – and even I forget to self exams every now and then! Crazy!
Twenty-five percent of all breast cancers are found by women doing their own breast examinations – that is a LOT!
Here is an awesome app by KAB loaded with health fact and other tools such as a monthly reminder to do your BSA!!!
Click HERE to get directed right to the site to get your own KAB app!!!
Not sure what to say about this swell. Waves don’t get this good around here that often, and stay consistently good for so many days in a row – especially under sunny skies with no wind and 75 degrees.
Everyone is buzzing ’round town – energy is up – surf stoke is high – smiles abound.
But for me… I am a little thankful that it has dropped in size today. I am apparently not great at fighting for a turn in a tight line up – I am way too polite and usually let the more aggressive pack of three to five guys have it if they want the wave so bad.
I certainly am not going to call anyone off my wave! I did a lot of sitting on the shoulder and watching, a lot of surfing the inside smaller waves, and on the biggest day –
I paddled out at Swamis for the fun of it. (and because it has the biggest channel! I have no chance at duck diving double over head waves!) It was a ZOO out there! I have never seen anything like it! 6 or more guys taking off at once – just madness!
I enjoyed the view for a while – then caught a smaller inside one in and called it a day.
Photo by Teresa
That is me… third from the left (WAY outside and on the shoulder!)
I can’t really complain about the crowds too much though – I myself and just adding to it! And anyway – there is nothing like being out there and feeling the power of nature’s energy in the form of a massive wave. If anything – every time I paddle out in huge waves… I get more and more comfortable. I have almost no fear, I feel strong and well, maybe someday I will get a chance to take off on a big one!
One of the small parts I slightly dread about surfing everyday is getting in and out of a wetsuit. Not that big of a deal – but just an added step in the routine… and often a cold wet step.
Today I decided to forego the wetsuit all together.
I knew I was only going to be out there for a short moment- so I just went for it.
the 75 degree of blissful sunshine helped me trick my brain in to thinking it was not so bad – and it actually felt good! A little shock to the heart, a capillary expander, and apparently a nerve numb-er.
Here’s to “swinter” and playing in the water in January!
Dear Lake MI… a part of me misses surfing in you.
Thanks to Brian for letting me borrow your board! – while I missed having Pinky with me… it was nice to be on a 9’6 to catch even the smallest of waves.
While I was really excited to get back to the warmer water, (well, at least warmer than 36 degrees!) It has been a transition. The waves were really good last weekend, and the crowds were out full force!
Paddling up to a tight line up is always a little intimidating, especially as a lady. I wait my turn patiently and respect everyone’s desire to get the chance at the best waves…
But when I am out there, usually one of the only girls, and I am next in line to catch a wave, and then I get snaked – well that just takes a bit of spirit out of me.
The first two days back from WI – that is what happened. Perfect waves, 100 rippers, and me. I didn’t even want to go out on Monday… but luckily it was flat and low tide when I went so I paddled around and drank up some of the salty sea – enjoying the rest day.
Today was a totally different story. I woke up this morning and asked for a little boost in the moral of the slightly daunting task currently of getting in my wetsuit and paddling out and not having a great session.
My wish came true.
Laura and I paddled out, in the warm sunshine and glassy conditions and the sets started to roll in… Long lines, no crowds, and a little sunny peace of heaven.
Thanks Mother Nature – I needed that. 117 more days to go!!!