A Wave A Day

Day 366 (Leap Year!)

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I can’t believe I am going to be saying this… “I’M DONE!”  So surreal.

See you tonight! Click on the flyer for event details.

sand castles

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Yesterday, was one of those days I would had rather not surfed.  Mukey water, wind on it, and no swell – not to mention a tight schedule.

My window was at sunset… I suited up without even looking at it… does it really matter? I still had to go!  I ran from the car to up the path way to get my heart rate up a little – and when I got to the top of the stairs, I was taken back.

No one in sight.

Not one surfer.

Not one walker on the beach.

No one watching the sunset.

I know it is most likely circumstantial considering the conditions, but part of me feels like the ocean is really offering me this space and time before the project comes to and end to reflect.

I walked down the steps and stuck my feet in to the sand.  I love walking pass the days doings… I saw tiny baby footsteps, and soon to be washed away sand castles. As I looked out passed the surf the horizon seemed to be covered in whale spouts back lit by the sunset.  Sort of ridiculously beautiful.

I caught a couple poo poo water closeouts and stood  in waist deep water for a while.  Just feeling the current push at me from the North.

4 more days…

sentiments.

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This week the ocean has granted me a peaceful time out in the water.  Tiny waves, eternity between sets and glassy conditions…

I have been feeling very sentimental and meditative about  the whole project this week.  Still a bit numb – but I have come to a conclusion that I will not know what it feels like to have surfed every day for a year until I wake up Tuesday morning, and I don’t have to surf.  It is impossible to compare this experience to anything I have done before.

There have been a lot of phone interviews and such the last few days and in hearing myself answer the questions –  I have noticed that so much has evolved since the early days of this project.  I have taught my kids so much about what it means to do something for others.  They would hear stories at the dinner table about people I would meet out in the water who had breast cancer, or learn about the support of the community and the business in to that make it thrive.  They can’t sand to see trash on the beach, or anywhere! And they ask if food is healthy for them or if it has chemicals in it.  I am constantly enamored by the amount of info they pick up on just following my footsteps.  There often is little need for explanation.

With only 5 days left…  I wish I could say that I was excited for myself to complete such a mission. I am, but really I am just barely tapping the surface of the work that needs to be done out there.   It all starts with you.  Make a change today and make everyday count!

I got to surf Swamis all by myself today… literally! It was almost erie.  Did someone yell SHARK and the crowd split? Did everyone expect rain and make different plans?

As I walked out in to knee high water and jumped on my board, I dipped my hand in for the first stoke and almost smacked a HUGE leopard shark right on its back!  It raced away and I kneeled up high to get a better view in to the water and I saw a bunch more… at least 6 – all in really shallow water.  I sat out there for a while in what appeared to be pretty flat conditions, but every now and then a little set would roll in and I had my pick of any wave I wanted!  Dolphins jumping, birds diving on bait, sun shining though the still clouds overhead… it was a little girls fairy tail dream.

Day 360. (not counting anymore)

yuck

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I feel like in a progressive State such as the glory land of California, that we would have a grasp on things such as trash control and water pollution.  I have been SO amazed this year by the amount of days I felt like I was surfing in a third world country.  Guess I never really noticed before because I had the chance to be picky and only paddle out on the sunny sunshine days when the water is crystally and birds are singing and unicorns fly by.  Not really, but in all my life – I never paddled out when I knew the water was foamy with run off.

I am always shoving pieces of floating debris into my wetsuit, a few here and there – hard to let it just float by you. Today I collected over 15 pieces in one short session at Pipes!  Crazy.  Plastic is one of our Earth’s worst enemy.  Most of the pieces were covered in tiny barnacles, so it most likely had been drifting around for a long while.  It is one thing to have trash left on the beach or washed up in a storm… but out in the line up?

Plastic sucks. Bad for the environment. Bad for our bodies. Reduce your use wherever possible!  Click on the photo to learn more about the Keep A Breast Non Toxic Revolution.

P.S. on a lighter note… ONE MORE WEEK!!! OH MY GOODNESS!!!

processing

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I have given up trying to process what this whole year has become.  Having been in the water 354 days already – you would think that I have a clear head, distinct feelings about this project, thoughts about whats to come.  But really, I feel a bit numb.

Last night was one of those nights that I really didn’t want to surf.  I was tired, waves didn’t look that great, and I had 30,000 other things I had to do.  I got changed at the house so I could just get right in and out.

After I paddled out, I was completely absorbed in the metallic glass.  I can’t explain what it feels like – almost like paddling through silk. The water was a degree or so warmer but the air refreshingly cool.  I sunk into a meditative state and caught my first wave.

I have been waiting for a wave like this for months! Peaky, glassy, and a bit slow – but enough power moving through that it held its face tall all the way to the inside.  I had a chance to finally feel where my surfing gone this year… I felt strong and fast. Mostly I felt like I was surfing completely absent of my mind.  It was just me, flying down the line on a perfect wave.

I kicked out and just sat there for minute – I said to myself, “hello surfer inside of me… I knew you were there.”

Feeling like I earned my ‘spot’ in the line up, I stayed out for and hour and a half rotating with 4 other guys who were actually ‘letting’ me have the bigger set waves.  I couldn’t believe it.  I probably had the dorkiest permasmile on my face the whole time.

I know I still do know…

12 more days… really???

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I am in a little bit of disbelief that I will be done with this year in only 12 more days.  When I look back to last summer – it seems like an eternity ago, almost another lifetime…

And yet, in the same breath – I am totally amazed at how truly fast this year really did go by.

I drank some tea last night that had me up till just before the sun came up… so in my fog of a day that I was drifting through… I floated out past the line up and ended up sitting there for what felt like most of the morning.

I think I maybe caught one wave.  Maybe I was too tired, or maybe I just needed to float around out there and take it all in for a while.  These next 2 weeks are going to fly by – and I don’t want the end to just come and go right before my eyes.   My goal is to stop each day and embrace how this year unfolded.  And when it is said and done – well, we will just see what it feels like when I get there…

what a beautiful day.

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Mammoth was a huge success – not to mention a great time!!! Ash, Laura, and Erin… You are the best!!! Can’t believe you all surfed with me at dawn in 30+mph winds!!! Video coming soon!

the calm before the storm…

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Day 348.

As I looked out on the horizon – I knew I had just minutes before the storm was going to hit.  It was already blowing about 20kts and believe it or not, I was excited to get in the water – even if there were no real ridable waves. I think the main reason why I was excited to get in was to see the water temp! Crazy, I know. But yesterday it almost felt warmer to me… like something had shifted, like we were actually moving towards summer.  I just couldn’t wait to find out if it was true.

I was right! At least for now – the temp had increased a degree or two.  Summer is coming!!!

I caught a big roaring whitewash, almost destroyed the bottom of my board on some reef that I surfed right over, but jumped off my board right in time, sacrificing my body to save my board – it worked.  Major shinner, but no ding!

Now it is time to pack my snow stuff! My ride is coming at 5:30 – it will be dark… shark bait.

TOMORROW!!!

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My wish came true… it is dumping up there!!! Click on the flyer to get connected to the FB event page and get filled in on all the details.

Thanks World Minded for having us up there – Can’t wait to be there!!!

moments in the line up

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I knew this year was going to have it’s moments. Moments of questioning, moments of testing my ability to endure, moments of lack of severe motivation.
But then there are days like yesterday. I only had a tiny window to throw my wetsuit on, paddle out, and catch a quick one in. There was 6 people in the line up, all guys with one lady on the shoulder on a long board. As I was sizing up the bigger sets that rolled passed me, I drifted over to her. We naturally got to chatting and it as the story of our days unfolded, she disclosed that she had been diagnosed with breast cancer month ago. She shared that she feels so lucky to find it so early and owes it to a visit to her friends house who had a BSA card hanging in the shower. It was not part of her routine in life, and admitted to relying on her OB during her yearly exam to check for lumps for her.
I felt like giving her a hug, but that is difficult balancing on a board – so we grabbed hands, I wished her well in her new journey and I caught a smaller set wave in.
Moments like this make the whole year worth it.

You gotta do it ladies, it is up to us to be in charge of our own health and happiness.
Go do what makes you happy today and don’t forget to check your boobies!!!