365 days of surfing to benefit breast cancer awareness May 1, 2011 to May 1, 2012
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My wish came true… it is dumping up there!!! Click on the flyer to get connected to the FB event page and get filled in on all the details.
Thanks World Minded for having us up there – Can’t wait to be there!!!
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I knew this year was going to have it’s moments. Moments of questioning, moments of testing my ability to endure, moments of lack of severe motivation.
But then there are days like yesterday. I only had a tiny window to throw my wetsuit on, paddle out, and catch a quick one in. There was 6 people in the line up, all guys with one lady on the shoulder on a long board. As I was sizing up the bigger sets that rolled passed me, I drifted over to her. We naturally got to chatting and it as the story of our days unfolded, she disclosed that she had been diagnosed with breast cancer month ago. She shared that she feels so lucky to find it so early and owes it to a visit to her friends house who had a BSA card hanging in the shower. It was not part of her routine in life, and admitted to relying on her OB during her yearly exam to check for lumps for her.
I felt like giving her a hug, but that is difficult balancing on a board – so we grabbed hands, I wished her well in her new journey and I caught a smaller set wave in.
Moments like this make the whole year worth it.
You gotta do it ladies, it is up to us to be in charge of our own health and happiness.
Go do what makes you happy today and don’t forget to check your boobies!!!
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WOW – 24 more days until I don’t “have” to surf???
In the mean time, I am planning a fun event to celebrate, raise money and thank all the people who have helped me with this mission!
Click on the flyer above to get connected to the FB event page, make sure to RSVP and pass it on!!!
See you there!!!
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After the last few days of getting sufficiently worked out in the water… my ears have gotten increasingly plugged up. This morning I woke up with almost no hearing – everything was muffled and I could feel the pressure that has built up.
I went to see Ashley at Indigo Dragon for a quick treatment to help relive some of the pressure. It helped right away – my left ear improved a lot but the right still has a way to go.
I have a new found respect for people with compromised hearing – it is not easy!
Here is one technique that has helped me along the way:
A Chi-Gong Exercise
A much gentler means of applying pressure on the eardrums is with a simple chi-gong exercise. This puts pressure on the external side of the eardrum, rather than the internal. Many people practice this exercise as a daily means of massaging the eardrum to maintain its health. As such, this can be done on your ears even when you aren’t hearing any crackling. Place your fingertips behind your head, touching at the base of your skull. Now let the hands reach over to where the palm cups the whole ear. With the hand cupping the ear you’ll hear something like what you’d hear listening to a seashell. Now, gently press your hands firmly against your ear, pressing the ear flat against your head, while maintaining a firm air-seal over your ears. You should only feel a slight pressure on the eardrums. Now, release the pressure quickly. You should hear a popping sound. The exercise should be done properly nine times, according to tradition. It can be repeated throughout the day.
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SHEESH!!! The last few days or more have got me feeling like I should give up surfing all together.
Granted the surf has been extra large for my standards… surely you would think I could catch one!
I have been either beaten down by the walls of superior whitewash, smacked down by never-rest sets, or pitched by the pocket plunging barreling waves at low tide.
I’ve had enough!
Dear Ocean, can you please send some gently waves of glory my way… to remind me that I do, in fact know how to surf?
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I can say for certain that surfing for me is always better with a buddy. At least at this point in the game when my motivation is wearing thin, especially when the waves are too big or too sloppy.
Juliette, my sis in law, is usually the one watching the boys at her house so I can sneak out for a wave.
But the other day… she braved the drizzles, the murky water, the wind, her fear of all things living beneath the water, and paddled out with me!!! It was awesome! So much better with a buddy, even if we just played around in the whitewash!
Thanks Juju. That made my day! And many many thanks for all the days you have had the boys over. So special!
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There wasn’t a chance I was going to miss seeing Tyler’s film he has been working on for years on the big screen at his first Premier. Problem was – it was in Columbia, MO.
In my mind, I figured… Midwest, I pictured frozen lakes and bare trees and frigid temps.
I called a local shop there and found out that, in fact, the lakes weren’t frozen! While it does snow there, they had unseasonably warm temps the weeks before – so at least I knew there was going to be water!
Then I asked if he knew where I could rent a SUP to use while I was there. Brennan was more than helpful and said he would actually help set me up with everything I needed to get on to some water! I was ecstatic – bought a ticket, and a few weeks later was touching down in Kansas City.
It was perfect. So much of what I was experiencing when I was there really hit home for me.
The smell of the wet earth, the mesmerizing trance of driving past miles of corn fields, the sound of the wind through the bare trees. I even liked feeling the mud between my toes and floating over the decomposing leaves that were beneath the water.
Take a look:
The next day wasn’t as serene. The wind picked up in the night, and by the time I got on the water, I had about a 30 minute window before the black wall of death was going to be on top of us. It started to rain and blow at least 30 mph… and right when we got the loaded back up in the car – it started to dump! Even snow a bit!!! Nothing like a little weather adventure to end the trip.
While it was a departure from catching a wave… I treated it like a flat day here, remembering that there are plenty of days when it laps up on the sand here and there is no wave in sight.
Many special thanks to Brennan and the crew at the Apline Shop in Columbia. It is an awesome store with super friendly staff and everything you need to get yourself into some outdoor fun in the Midwest!
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Click on the flyer to be linked to the FB Event page!!! Hope to see you there!
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Surfing can be either really hard on your body – or a great gentle way to get moving – usually depending on the swell and conditions.
But for me: it is all the repetition with out ANY time for recovery.
This is a Yoga posture named Garudasana. This posture stretches the upper back muscles between your shoulder blades (rhomboid muscles) that tighten from repeated paddling. This takes pressure off the joints/vertebra in the middle of the spine and assists in taking pressure off the neck and lower back.
Instruction
Bend the elbows and cross them in front of the chest with vertical forearms and the thumbs ideally facing towards the head.
Cross the left elbow over the right, fitting it into the notch of the elbow.
Moving the right hand towards the head and the left away from it, cross the hands and place the fingers of the right hand on the left palm.
Raise the elbows towards shoulder level as you stretch the hands up and away from the body to increase the stretch.
Hold for 6 breaths and then switch arms.
I usually do this stretch after a long surf, or a tough paddle through a big swell. Or sometimes while I am out there sitting, waiting for the next set!
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The anticipation of waking up every day and knowing that at some point I have to get in the water can really weigh heavy on the day. Some days I can’t wait to get in the water – while others, it is a serious chore.
Mostly due to storms producing nasty water or sickness producing nasty feelings. There are only two days out of the week that the kids are covered – so the other days are a constant juggle.
This is a photo from after last weekend storm. I normally wouldn’t choose to hang out in a toilet, but that it what it felt like that day. Not to mention 40mph winds blowing the toxic mess into a froth.
I often loose motivation and drive after days of this. I can think of 1000 different things I would like to do than go jump in a runoff frenzy.
But then there are days like this… and all my sense of self is renewed.
100% of all donations benefit Keep A Breast Foundation
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