I have given up trying to process what this whole year has become. Having been in the water 354 days already – you would think that I have a clear head, distinct feelings about this project, thoughts about whats to come. But really, I feel a bit numb.
Last night was one of those nights that I really didn’t want to surf. I was tired, waves didn’t look that great, and I had 30,000 other things I had to do. I got changed at the house so I could just get right in and out.
After I paddled out, I was completely absorbed in the metallic glass. I can’t explain what it feels like – almost like paddling through silk. The water was a degree or so warmer but the air refreshingly cool. I sunk into a meditative state and caught my first wave.
I have been waiting for a wave like this for months! Peaky, glassy, and a bit slow – but enough power moving through that it held its face tall all the way to the inside. I had a chance to finally feel where my surfing gone this year… I felt strong and fast. Mostly I felt like I was surfing completely absent of my mind. It was just me, flying down the line on a perfect wave.
I kicked out and just sat there for minute – I said to myself, “hello surfer inside of me… I knew you were there.”
Feeling like I earned my ‘spot’ in the line up, I stayed out for and hour and a half rotating with 4 other guys who were actually ‘letting’ me have the bigger set waves. I couldn’t believe it. I probably had the dorkiest permasmile on my face the whole time.
I know I still do know…