This week the ocean has granted me a peaceful time out in the water. Tiny waves, eternity between sets and glassy conditions…
I have been feeling very sentimental and meditative about the whole project this week. Still a bit numb – but I have come to a conclusion that I will not know what it feels like to have surfed every day for a year until I wake up Tuesday morning, and I don’t have to surf. It is impossible to compare this experience to anything I have done before.
There have been a lot of phone interviews and such the last few days and in hearing myself answer the questions – I have noticed that so much has evolved since the early days of this project. I have taught my kids so much about what it means to do something for others. They would hear stories at the dinner table about people I would meet out in the water who had breast cancer, or learn about the support of the community and the business in to that make it thrive. They can’t sand to see trash on the beach, or anywhere! And they ask if food is healthy for them or if it has chemicals in it. I am constantly enamored by the amount of info they pick up on just following my footsteps. There often is little need for explanation.
With only 5 days left… I wish I could say that I was excited for myself to complete such a mission. I am, but really I am just barely tapping the surface of the work that needs to be done out there. It all starts with you. Make a change today and make everyday count!
I got to surf Swamis all by myself today… literally! It was almost erie. Did someone yell SHARK and the crowd split? Did everyone expect rain and make different plans?
As I walked out in to knee high water and jumped on my board, I dipped my hand in for the first stoke and almost smacked a HUGE leopard shark right on its back! It raced away and I kneeled up high to get a better view in to the water and I saw a bunch more… at least 6 – all in really shallow water. I sat out there for a while in what appeared to be pretty flat conditions, but every now and then a little set would roll in and I had my pick of any wave I wanted! Dolphins jumping, birds diving on bait, sun shining though the still clouds overhead… it was a little girls fairy tail dream.
Day 360. (not counting anymore)