the calm before the storm…

Day 348.

As I looked out on the horizon – I knew I had just minutes before the storm was going to hit.  It was already blowing about 20kts and believe it or not, I was excited to get in the water – even if there were no real ridable waves. I think the main reason why I was excited to get in was to see the water temp! Crazy, I know. But yesterday it almost felt warmer to me… like something had shifted, like we were actually moving towards summer.  I just couldn’t wait to find out if it was true.

I was right! At least for now – the temp had increased a degree or two.  Summer is coming!!!

I caught a big roaring whitewash, almost destroyed the bottom of my board on some reef that I surfed right over, but jumped off my board right in time, sacrificing my body to save my board – it worked.  Major shinner, but no ding!

Now it is time to pack my snow stuff! My ride is coming at 5:30 – it will be dark… shark bait.